Wednesday, January 1, 2014

Day 3.2: The Hermitage

We'd wanted to do a couple of historic sites while we were in Nashville, such as Belle Meade Plantation and The Hermitage, but ended up only having time for one (and we had to rush that one a bit).


The Hermitage was the estate of President Andrew Jackson, aka "Old Hickory." On our way there, Madison recounted a story she'd learned in history class where Jackson had gotten into a duel with a man, Charles Dickinson, who'd insulted his wife, Rachel. Jackson took the bullet and then killed Dickinson.

Our first stop was the Vistor's Center, which we actually skipped since it was open later than the house. When we arrived, there was a tour guide telling the exact same story of the duel that Madison had told us in the car.


The house was very nice and roomy. Like most historic homes, they wouldn't let us take pictures inside. Also, the original house was much smaller and had been remodeled a couple of times during Jackson's lifetime. From there the tour led back outside to the outer buildings, such as the kitchen, food storage, and more.



Just past the house was one of the slaves' quarters. But further back was a one-story building that had actually housed slaves, still standing, the he'd given to his slaves. Jackson had converted it from a two-story log cabin where he and his family had lived while the main house was being built.


Much of the estate had been a cotton farm; hence the need for slaves. While Jackson seemed to treat his slaves well, he didn't have any problem with slavery itself. Unlike Washington and Jefferson, who'd clearly struggled with it. That was the first thing that gave us mixed feelings about him.


The property us still quite large. To the back is a small stream and an old well that was a favorite spot of Rachel. We could certainly understand. It was quite peaceful there and the wooded trails made you want to explore.


Jackson and Rachel are both buried near the house, in a small graveyard in the garden that she loved. She died several years before him; though, they're both buried together under a domed monument.

Our last stop was the Visitor's Center, where we got to learn more about the man himself. On the one hand, there was much to be admired and with which to sympathize. His whole family had died by the time he was thirteen. He managed to educate himself, become a lawyer, a devoted husband, and eventually President of the United States. Born a common man, he remained a champion of the poor man.

But he had no regards for the rights of women, Native Americans, or African Americans. He had no problem at all with slavery and, as President, violated the treaty with Native Americans and put them on the infamous Trail of Tears.

They tried to put a positive spin on it, saying that while what he did was wrong, his ideals for poor, white men were right when applied to others. It was a reach, but I couldn't blame them for trying. 

As I said, it all added up to a lot of mixed feelings.

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