Day 6: Sometimes It Really is the Climb

Happy Independence Day, America!

Today was an absolute topsy-turvy day in Florence, where we completely threw our schedule out the window. And it turned out to be one of our best so far. We had an 11:00 entry time to visit the Uffizi Gallery (Galleria degli Uffizi), the top museum in Florence. Last night, however, Marsha and Madison both inquired about just skipping it, even though we’d already paid for tickets. Truth be told, the heat and the pace (especially the heat), was really getting to us. The time difference wasn’t helping, either. Particularly for Madison, who’s another three hours off from us.

So, when my alarm went off this morning, I didn’t have the heart to wake them up. So, I just shut it off and went back to sleep. By the time I woke again, it was already 11:30. And after 12:30 before either of them stirred. I didn’t feel sorry one bit for missing our entry.

It was around 2:30 before we finally left the room and just what the doctor ordered. We felt great! It was still hot out, but with Florence’s narrow streets we managed to stay in the shade, plus it was fairly breezy today. We found a great little cafe for lunch (Casa del Vin Santo) where we stopped for pizza, which was terrific. By then it was way too late to even try the Uffizi (assuming they would let us in) and still a little early for our tickets to the Duomo, so we just strolled around a bit.

We chanced upon a Disney Store, so of course we had to stop. On the surface, it looked a lot like ones we have in the US, but the artwork all had an Italian flavor (the Fab Five as historic Italian figures). Our favorite part was listening to the Disney songs in Italian.

It was finally time for our entry to the Duomo. There was a long line to enter the Cathedral (which is free), and a shorter, timed entry (every 30 minutes) to climb the dome (not free). At 4:30 they opened the doors again and let us in. We got a brief glimpse of the Cathedral before we went through a doorway and started our way upstairs. The first staircase (notice I said “first”) was the usual kind: rectangular steps up to a landing, then another flight, another landing, and so on. There were just an awful LOT of them (463 in total, which we didn’t know at the time). We finally got winded and had to stop. But whe we continued, we found we were only one landing from a room with several statues.

The first stop was inside the Dome, on a tiny walkway that went all the way around and overlooked the Cathedral. Then we went through a tiny door and the climb got more and more challenging the higher we went: tight, narrow staircases made of stone (only designed for maintenance workers), circular staircases that are so long and tight you get dizzy reaching the top. And the real challenge is that unless you’ve done it before, there’s just no way to know how far you have left to climb.

The final section was the most challenging. Very tight corridors with narrow staircases that you also have to share with people coming down. At times we’d reach a bunching up point where several of us would have to squeeze off to the side to let others go down before we could go up. Plus, it was so hot and stuffy, we were gasping and sweating like crazy. Thank goodness we’d gotten some water before going in.

When we reached what I hoped was the final landing, Marsha and Madison were just about ready to give up. But we’d come that far already, so I wasn’t about to. But then when I turned the corner to climb the (Dear God, please!) last staircase, I actually exclaimed out loud, “Oh, crap!” I think a lot of people had the exact same reaction.

The steps went up the outside curve of the dome, so when I looked it, it appeared as though the old lady ahead of me was actually laying down as she climbed. I desperately needed fresh air (asthmatic), so I charged ahead. And much to my relief, when I reached the top, there was just one more narrow staircase before we reached the outside.

Oh, my Lord, it was glorious! Not only was there fresh air and a cool breeze, but you could see all of Florence in every direction! Just breathtaking! We could see the train station, hilltop fortresses, and the beauty of Florence for miles. Absolutely incredible! The only catch was that the floor was made of marble, which felt very slippery. Between that and the wind, we were extra careful getting close to the edge, even with the iron railing.

The climb back down was also challenging, but with the added difference that this time we had some idea of where we were. And gravity working in our favor. We passed one old lady who stopped halfway on the narrow, circular staircase, clinging for dear life. For all I know, she may still be there.

When we reached the bottom, we got another brief glimpse of the Cathedral, which appeared to be closed for the day. By that point, though, we’d definitely seen enough.

Afterwards, we grabbed some iced cappuccino before heading over to the Uffizi, with the hopes they’d still let us in. It was only an hour before closing, so we felt that wouldn’t be a problem and we were right. And let me tell you, that was the way to see the Uffizi! We practically had the whole place to ourselves and the temperature inside was great. First thing we had to do was climb stairs to the top floor, but then we were free to rush through Ferris Bueller-style.

Marsha wanted to see Botticelli’s Birth of Venus, which was amazing. We saw lots of statues and paintings by Da Vinci (much bigger than the Mona Lisa) and Michelangelo. Marsha and I both marveled (again) at his technique that makes his paintings seem three-dimensional. And this time we could see it up close (as opposed to the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel).

After we rushed through the remaining floors (the museum was closing), we managed to get to the Ponte Vecchio before the shops (mostly jewelry) closed. It was really cool getting to see it in all its glory.

Our last stop for the night was dinner. We’d seen several outdoor cafes at the Piazza della Signoria (which I previously misidentified as Piazza Vecchio, because I confused it with Palazzo Vecchio), so that was an easy choice. We loved the misters built into the railings, so from s distance it looks like people are smoking like crazy.

We had dinner at Ristorante Orcagna, which was pretty good. But the best part was the location. It’s our favorite Piazza in Florence, there was a good breeze, and musicians playing. Couldn’t have asked for a better ending to our time here in Florence.

Tomorrow, it’s back to the train station to head to Venice (Venezia). Have to get up at a decent time, but thankfully, we better know what we’re doing this time and the station is only three blocks away.

Ciao!