We finally slept in today and had a really, really lazy morning. We didn't leave the room until after 1:30pm. Our original plan had been to visit some of the mansions today, but since we got such a late start, we just focused on doing the Cliff Walk.
We found a great little cafe called Annie's that we just loved. It was perfect because it was right on the way to the Cliff Walk and serves all-day breakfast. We just love all of the old buildings here. It's really like stepping back in time, and reminds us of England. How apropos.
Back during the Gilded Age, Newport was the summer playground of the Vanderbilts, Astors, and other millionaires from NYC. For anyone who's visited Biltmore in Asheville, NC, this is where George's brothers all built their summer "cottages." Most of these grand homes are built on a peninsula and back up to the ocean. Last time we were here, we only walked a small section, so our goal for this trip was to walk the whole thing.
The Cliff Walk is 3.5 miles and goes around the entire peninsula, connecting the mansions. The walk pre-dates the mansions; it was previously used by Native Americans and local fishermen. During the late-1800s, many of the mansion owners improved their sections of the path with steps, tunnels, and bridges. It was designated an historic walk in 1976 and restored under the direction of Claus von Bulow, of all people (had to tell Madison who he was).
The Walk runs between two beaches: you begin at Easton's Beach and end at Bailey's Beach. The first section is a little deceptive. It's all very nicely paved, there are hand railings, and it all makes for a good casual stroll. The views are just amazing.
Once you get past The Breakers (home of Cornelius Vanderbilt II), however, the walk gets a little more challenging. The trail completely disappears in places and you have to walk across giant rocks.
There are also a couple of tunnels, particularly when you pass by Marble House (home of William K. Vanderbilt) and the Chinese Tea House.
And of course, all along the way you've got incredible natural views to one side, and all the splendor of the Gilded Age on the other. As I said, it really is like stepping back in time.
The last section is probably the most challenging. In addition to all of the giant rocks you have to cross, there's a two-mile stretch with no exits. The mansions are all open for tours, so they're fenced off from the Cliff Walk.
When we finally reached the end, we found ourselves at the very end of Bellvue Avenue, the main road that goes to all of the mansions (and directly back to our hotel). Marsha wanted to keep walking, so she opted to walk back. Madison and I took an Uber.
After we got back to the hotel, we took a few minutes to relax before we changed into warmer clothes (this is July, isn't it?) and headed out for dinner. Didn't have any reservations tonight (probably not the best idea), so we just strolled down Thames Street until we found something with a good menu and not too long of a wait. Our top choice was Brick Alley Pub, but they had a 90 minute wait.
We finally settled on The Red Parrot, which was pretty good, but unbelievably noisy. Definitely in our top three loudest restaurants (the other two being McGillin's in Philly and Nando's in Cardiff, Wales). They have bars on each floor, nothing to absorb the sound, and there seemed to be multiple wedding parties there (we seen several groups of bridesmaids).
Back at the room, we settled in with some TV before calling it a night. All in all, a great day in Newport and a welcome reminder of what we love about this place.
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